Last Tuesday through Thursday, I celebrated Christmas again--the Macedonian version. Tuesday was Kolede, which involves people setting bonfires in the streets and gathering around them with neighbors to chat and snack. I think the fires symbolize a fresh start to the new year and people used to burn old, undesirable items but I didn't see anyone burning anything but wood. Kids also go around singing songs for candy and money, ala Halloween in America but sans costumes. My fellow volunteer neighbor Heather and I joined our landlords Ljube and Dushko for our street's bonfire. It was nice to meet some of the neighbors and listen to the conversation. Luckily it was not a super cold night but we did sip some rakija to help keep warm. Afterwards, Heather and I went to a celebration held by a friend of hers, Denny. His father started the party tradition because Kolede coincided with his birthday and now Denny continues the gathering as a memorial. More rakija and snacks were consumed and I met more of Heather's friends, so my circle of acquaintances is growing.
On Wednesday, Christmas Eve, I took the bus to visit my host family in Sveti Nikole (about 3 hours from Bitola). It was great to catch up with my family--I swear my host nephew Mario looked bigger after only 6 weeks. I watched my host mom, Viki, prepare some of the traditional dishes. There is an Orthodox Lent here before Christmas, so no foods with dairy, eggs, or meat are eaten on Christmas eve (or by traditional families the 40 days prior to Christmas). As we were sitting down to dinner, I was surprised to learn that it would be just me and my host parents--traditionally everyone stays in their own homes for Christmas Eve dinner so my host sister Kate and her family were at their house. Suffice to say I was also stunned to discover the food covering three-quarters of the table was just for the three of us. I loaded some new photos on Picasa, you'll see what I mean. There is an oak branch on the table, which I've read is supposed to symbolize health and long life. This makes sense because one of the most common holiday greetings here is, "For many years," i.e. may you have a long life.
Christmas itself in Macedonia is pretty low key. I went with Viki to the Orthodox church to see what the services are like. Men stood on one side of the church, women on the other and there are no seats. There are priests conducting a mass but at the same time people are walking around lighting memorial candles and leaving offerings. The offerings are most often money, cooking oil, towels, and food. As the offerings are laid down, people often kiss pictures of saints and other religious icons. The church later resells the offerings, so it's more or less a form of tithing. Viki and I left after about an hour but my understand is that the service goes on most of the day. Later I visited Viki's parents and had a big lunch with my host family, breaking the Lenten fast by eating a meal with meat and cheese.
Many other volunteers were also in Sveti Nikole, so we got to catch up and share stories. Even though we are all serving in the same country, everyone has very different situations for work, home, etc. and thus different challenges and successes. We try to support each other and yet not get jealous when somebody's "farther along," if you will.
It was wonderful to have my host family include me in their holiday celebrations, especially since it was my first time experiencing them. In some ways the trip was also stressful because my family gave me the impression that they thought I would have made more progress with my Macedonian. I guess if there's anything family is for, it's to give you a good kick in the pants when you are slacking off. It is easy to speak a lot more English in Bitola than I did/could in Sveti Nikole, but I am going to make a renewed effort to improve my Macedonian.
Believe it or not, the holiday season rolls on in Macedonia. This week is Old New Year and next week is the Epiphany, then things finally wind down--expect to hear more about unique Macedonian celebrations soon.
No comments:
Post a Comment